Super Vinci Shooting high????

[mudhen]

My new SV is the best wing shooting of the dozen or so Benellis I have owned since 1991.  I haven't looked at a bead while wing shooting in maybe 10+ years, so the C shim + removing the front bead was good for me.

I haven't sighted in the SV for Turks yet, but I presume I will need a sight, just as I have needed for most of my high vent rib guns.

No problem, as I have shot the FF for years, and have a FF3 just waiting to go on the SV...

mudhen

I'm thinking the ff is going to be the way to go. Do you mount it on a rail/scope mount rail? Or would you suggest the one that mounts like the shims do on benellis? Maybe I'm confused. Maybe that is the speed bead?

I just use a Weaver 93 type base with the Fast Fire.  The Speed Bead is the one that mounts like a shim, and I have heard that some don't like it with turkey loads.

With the base, you might want to try a Picatinny rail, because the Weaver 93A has only two cutouts for the base, where a Picatanny has many cutouts.  The only problem there is that not all Picatinny bases are the same shape, and I have had to modify some to fit the base of the Fast Fire.

Many use a small base, but I don't mind the 93 base, I can add many things to it if necessary, and I take the sight off for duck season anyway...

Good luck!

mudhen

[allaboutshooting]

Just one other thing that you might want to consider. A gun that shoots 6" high at 10 yards may well not allow you to adjust the sights to get it on target at 40 yards. There is a limit to the adjustment of any sighting device.

The shims with that gun should be able to bring you back into range. A "wing gun" and the way it's sighted, 6 O'Clock hold, are one thing but it sounds like your gun is shooting much higher than that.

When I read the instructions with my early model Vinci, it did not give very clear instructions about changing the shims "...no tools are needed..." when if fact a wrench is needed to remove the bolt that holds the shim in place.

I don't remember how those shims are marked but the shim that is thick at the top and thin at the bottom, should get you going in the correct direction.

If that does not work, I'd really recommend that you take that gun back to the dealer.

Thanks,
Clark

Thanks again for your help. I do have the thickest shim in and my user manual also said no tools required, but unless I'm missing something those shim's don't get replaced without a wrench. By the 6 o'clock position are you meaning that even when shooting from a rest/bench, I should put the bead just under the "X" in the 6 o'clock position? Or would that mostly be with wing shooting?

Many European guns are regulated to be "wing guns" so that a hunter or shooter can always keep his eye on the target or bird. When you mount that gun naturally the muzzle will be at 6 O' Clock in relationship to the target. Many U.S. made wing guns were made to cover the target when mounted the same way.

You are correct about needing a wrench. It's an error in the owner's manual. I also found that by experimenting with the various shims, and not necessarily using the logical one, I could get my gun to shoot right to point of aim. You may want to give that a try.

If however your gun is right on as far as windage and you can use a 6 O' Clock hold on the turkey's head, base of his head, etc. and get a good pattern there, that's exactly what I'd do.

Thanks,
Clark

[BrowningGuy88]

6 O'clock hold on a turkey would be holding the bead right at the waddles and putting the pattern from his waddles up.

[Bustabeak]

I just read something in a magazine about testing you patterns. It says "when shooting test patterns, hold your gun in your hands just as you would in the field. Given the velocity of shotgun loads, a gun set on a bench rest may recoil up and away from its set position before the shot has exited the barrel. This can result in falsely high patterns"

I will say when I shot last week the barrel did seem to "jump up" off of my shooting rest. Do you guys pattern by shooting out if a vise or do you just hold the gun? I know patterning for wing shooting you would probably want to hold you gun, but would you want to do that for turkey patterning?

[allaboutshooting]

I don't clamp anything down when I pattern a shotgun. I use a solid front rest and shoot it off my right shoulder. One advantage to your Vinci is that it has very little muzzle jump, compared to many other guns.

Thanks,
Clark

[davisd9]

I just read something in a magazine about testing you patterns. It says "when shooting test patterns, hold your gun in your hands just as you would in the field. Given the velocity of shotgun loads, a gun set on a bench rest may recoil up and away from its set position before the shot has exited the barrel. This can result in falsely high patterns"

I will say when I shot last week the barrel did seem to "jump up" off of my shooting rest. Do you guys pattern by shooting out if a vise or do you just hold the gun? I know patterning for wing shooting you would probably want to hold you gun, but would you want to do that for turkey patterning?

I pattern as if I am hunting, against a tree on my backside.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

[VooDooMagic]

I just read something in a magazine about testing you patterns. It says "when shooting test patterns, hold your gun in your hands just as you would in the field. Given the velocity of shotgun loads, a gun set on a bench rest may recoil up and away from its set position before the shot has exited the barrel. This can result in falsely high patterns"

I will say when I shot last week the barrel did seem to "jump up" off of my shooting rest. Do you guys pattern by shooting out if a vise or do you just hold the gun? I know patterning for wing shooting you would probably want to hold you gun, but would you want to do that for turkey patterning?

I pattern as if I am hunting, against a tree on my backside.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

+1  The same position as if I was hunting...