Bead blasted aluminum can be simply wiped w alcohol. I condition half my stoned w scotch brite to make em at least partly raw aluminum.
Slick aluminum often comes w chalk. Certain makers use 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface slightly. I love my aluminums n have taken to running the sandpaper on all my slick aluminum calls. It might be harder to sell this way but brings the calls to life w zero squealing etc. Anyone else do this?
I only have one Aluminum and it is a slick anodized surface. I use 320 grit sand paper and I've had great results. I've also used the brown / maroon scotch brite as well. I have never felt the need for chalk and I'll sand it down to bare aluminum before I ever have to use chalk.
Quote from: 870BkWht on March 02, 2017, 09:40:42 AM
I only have one Aluminum and it is a slick anodized surface. I use 320 grit sand paper and I've had great results. I've also used the brown / maroon scotch brite as well. I have never felt the need for chalk and I'll sand it down to bare aluminum before I ever have to use chalk.
don't knock it till u try it
not a fan of the anodized stuff ,, but that's me I like condition with scotch brite pad or lightly with 320 but mostly ,,,, iam same way if it needs chalk run a pot its staying at home
I do the same to mine, on the stoned, one half I leave alone and he other I hit with scotch bright. On anodized I hit the sweet spot with 220 emery cloth and leave the rest anodized. I've found you'll also get a little different sound out of it each way, almost like two pots in one. It does lower the value of a call scratching it up like that but I hardly sell off any of my pots anyways...
If you use 91% alcohol on them, it'll take the slip out and make them play better...I've scratched up the anodizing on some aluminums and it does give a different tone also...
I prefer scotchbrite on plain anodized, just enough for the striker to grab and I don't mind putting some rain chalk right on the playing surface.