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Turkey Calls => Pot Calls Forum => Topic started by: wvlimbhanger on March 01, 2016, 11:21:12 AM

Title: conditioning aluminum
Post by: wvlimbhanger on March 01, 2016, 11:21:12 AM
How do you take a pot call with a fresh surface of aluminum and prep it for calling?

I'm new to the aluminum game and want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Thanks,

Nathan

Title: Re: conditioning aluminum
Post by: letinmfly on March 01, 2016, 11:27:27 AM
Blasted anodized aluminum you'll need an alcohol pad.  Anodized and plain aluminum you'll need a Scotch-Brite pad or fine sandpaper, when needed, and clean with an alcohol pad.
More important, IMO, Scotch-Brite the striker tip on occasion.  Makes a big difference.
Title: conditioning aluminum
Post by: Stump.270 on March 01, 2016, 11:48:03 PM
U can also chalk the striker 


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Title: Re: conditioning aluminum
Post by: Dr Juice on March 02, 2016, 03:10:37 PM
Quote from: letinmfly on March 01, 2016, 11:27:27 AM
Blasted anodized aluminum you'll need an alcohol pad.  Anodized and plain aluminum you'll need a Scotch-Brite pad or fine sandpaper, when needed, and clean with an alcohol pad.
More important, IMO, Scotch-Brite the striker tip on occasion.  Makes a big difference.
I use Scotch Brite pads, but have not tried alcohol. Interesting.
Title: Re: conditioning aluminum
Post by: New Yorker on March 03, 2016, 07:55:01 PM
Shiny aluminum and shiny copper, I use a scotch brite pad going in only one direction like you do on glass. Anodized aluminum, I don't touch at all! Play it like it is. Media blasted copper and aluminum i touch up when needed with the scotch brite pad. If you condition anodized aluminum, you will end up removing the thin layer on anodizing and be left with normal shiny aluminum... Same scotch brite on slate. Primos conditioning stick on glass and crystal. With pot calls, the least amount of conditioning that you do, the better. That dust is material that you are removing. I have literally worn holes through slate from conditioning it over the years. Less is better.