I am still struggling to get consistent purrs and clucks with my mouth calls. I can, however, make them with my slate call. I want to use strictly mouth calls so I don't have to make any unnecessary movements and so I can have my gun ready.
How close is a gobbler when he is now too close to be using a slate call?
Is it possible that if he is too close to be using a slate, then I don't even need to be calling him anymore anyways?
Normally when he's too close to call he's almost dead. It can vary some very early season but often when they come that close they come. You can move when he's behind some cover but he prob already knows where you are so just be patient
if you can clearly see his head he can clearly see you and movement should be at a minimum. you were planning to build a blind though, so while they have great eyes sight they can't see through the blind so keep those hands down below the blind and you can shuffle a deck of cards if you want.
in timber after a little green up most of the time by the time he's in clear view he's pretty close to gun range and calling isn't needed. I might not be the best person for advice on this though since generally I'm just the caller and someone else is worrying about shooting so I don't need to worry about doing both.
My advice, continue to work with your mouth calls. I purr and cluck with mouth calls when I would NEVER do so with a pot call.
Primos super freak had a leg strap, you can run it with one hand, can also switch calls in the holder.
I had two toms shakin' the ground about 15 feet behind me a couple years ago, so close all I could do was keekee at 'em real soft. Seemed like an hour they stood there hollerin'. I finally had to take a leak so bad I turned around and got lucky with one.
I am going against the grain here and sayin' use what you know in the field, and practice with the diaphragm at home (and in the car, and in the bathroom, etc.)
When I utilize a box call, I use some sort of camouflage material in front of the call, so that it is more difficult for birds to see the movement of my hands and/or the call... I am more worried about busting birds I do not see rather than the ones that I do see.
Typically, I do not call at a bird I can see at any distance (mouth call or not)... If I can see them, they can see me. I always wait for an obstruction to be between myself and the bird, as they can pinpoint that sound so darned well.
Mouth calls are great, but an awful lot of turkeys were killed before the advent of the diaphragm call...
Set up the call, and set up your gun so that you can switch between the two with minimal movement; set up camo netting of some sort to reduce the movement seen. Don't call if you can see the bird. If he is close, be patient and let his curiosity get the best of him...
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Ben Lee used to swear by his camo apron. He'd work his Super Hen under that apron to hid the movement.
I carry a 4'X6' section of die-cut camo blind. It's got cord all the way around. I've found it most useful. I throw it up across a bush or between two saplings or just drape it over my legs and work a call underneath it.
I also carry a push-pin call. There have been a lot of times I have called up a bird with something else and then switched to clucks and purrs on the push-pin to close the deal. I also use a mouth call, but sometimes working two calls at once is what it takes.
Quote from: Bowguy on March 15, 2015, 12:20:08 PM
Normally when he's too close to call he's almost dead. It can vary some very early season but often when they come that close they come. You can move when he's behind some cover but he prob already knows where you are so just be patient
Good advice
Like shaman said, using a push pin call is a good way to go. A buddy of mine was so awful on almost any kind of call, he got himself a push pin. That was the only call he ever used and he's killed plenty of turkeys with it. If you can make a good quiet cluck on a mouth call, you should be good to go.
If he's already close you shouldn't need to call much anyway.
Jim
One of my favorite off-the-wall tactics is with the push-pin. I'll do this when a hen walks in close just as I'm trying to close a deal on a gob or when the gob comes in , but hangs up behind a tree. I always keep the push-pin handy as a last resort and will throw up a feisty purr that says "GO AWAY! You're too close!" For the hen, that usually get her to leave without her busting me. For a gob that's close, but not quite there, it will get him to pop his head around the tree or peek around the bush. I may cluck on the mouth call too. It depends on how much of a fuss I want.
im just gonna say this and its my opinion. I have hunted turkeys many years and I have killed more than my share. out of those kills , the majority has been with a friction type call. I have closed countless deals with a pot call. you have to know when to call. that's the most important thing. once a bird commits then im done calling. if he hangs up , I can soft call on a pot call with my knees hiding it. most times I have found being silent after they start their approach is all that is needed. again just my opinion and my experience.
Setup with both your knees up, gun tucked under your armpit, and drape your jacket across your knees (hanging down in front of you to the top of your boots), hiding whatever you do in/around your belly. You can then use a slate, box call, push-button, whatever you want at that point.
BGD
Quote from: bamagtrdude on March 16, 2015, 04:55:30 PM
Setup with both your knees up, gun tucked under your armpit, and drape your jacket across your knees (hanging down in front of you to the top of your boots), hiding whatever you do in/around your belly. You can then use a slate, box call, push-button, whatever you want at that point.
BGD
I won't speak for the OP, but judging from the sizes of turkey vests available, I'd say there are a lot of turkey hunters that can barely hide their bellies, much less hide something near, on, or around their belly... :-*
Quote from: Marc on March 16, 2015, 09:10:34 PM
Quote from: bamagtrdude on March 16, 2015, 04:55:30 PM
Setup with both your knees up, gun tucked under your armpit, and drape your jacket across your knees (hanging down in front of you to the top of your boots), hiding whatever you do in/around your belly. You can then use a slate, box call, push-button, whatever you want at that point.
BGD
I won't speak for the OP, but judging from the sizes of turkey vests available, I'd say there are a lot of turkey hunters that can barely hide their bellies, much less hide something near, on, or around their belly... :-*
HA; good point.
Interesting post...
I've had numerous occasions where the tom will only respond to the slate...
Can't stop, he'll lose interest...
I try to manage the slate on the ground, or just do the best I can holding the gun and call...
I recall a NE tom, hung up at 75 yards, would only reply to a slate...he stood there for 45 mins, gobbled maybe 100 times at the slate and on his own...I squawked the best I could on the slate....shot him at 16 yards....
My favorite judges are the birds....
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I recommend that you use a push button call. Otherwise, practice your mouth calls.
Quote from: Spitten and drummen on March 16, 2015, 02:15:02 PM
.... you have to know when to call. that's the most important thing. once a bird commits then im done calling.... most times I have found being silent after they start their approach is all that is needed. ...
Man knows what he's talking about.
Just dont set them down on each other....they dont like the click,dont ask how i know :funnyturkey:
Quote from: howl on March 25, 2015, 09:36:11 AM
Quote from: Spitten and drummen on March 16, 2015, 02:15:02 PM
.... you have to know when to call. that's the most important thing. once a bird commits then im done calling.... most times I have found being silent after they start their approach is all that is needed. ...
Man knows what he's talking about.
Yep I agree
Quote from: mlisandro on March 17, 2015, 08:10:15 PM
I recommend that you use a push button call. Otherwise, practice your mouth calls.
Done that before...
One thing that has not been mentioned is just learning to cluck and purr with your natural voice. With a little practice, a guy can pretty closely duplicate the soft purring and "bubble" clucks made by turkeys at close range.
The purr can be duplicated by first matching the tonal quality of the natural purr by essentially humming and raising or lowering your voice until you think you are at about the same tone,...and then learning to vibrate your tongue (similar to using a mouth call to purr) while doing the hum at the right tonal level. One thing to remember, though, is that a natural contented purr a turkey makes is only four or five notes long, very quick, and very soft,...most people draw out their purrs much too long and loud.
The hollow, popping, bubble cluck can be made by closing your mouth and popping out quick bursts of air by popping your lips open, and at the same time using your voice to match the tone of a cluck.
...Hard to explain, but if you just try doing it for a while, you can learn to match both sounds quite well. Once you have it down, it eliminates the need for any sort of movement needed with a friction call,...and also the worries about screwing up a cluck/purr with a mouth call.
Quote from: turkey_slayer on March 25, 2015, 05:01:05 PM
Quote from: howl on March 25, 2015, 09:36:11 AM
Quote from: Spitten and drummen on March 16, 2015, 02:15:02 PM
.... you have to know when to call. that's the most important thing. once a bird commits then im done calling.... most times I have found being silent after they start their approach is all that is needed. ...
Man knows what he's talking about.
Yep I agree
I agree also .
This is true. However, there are those occasions when you have to try to say something to a gobbler to get him where you need him to be. Being able to do that, and do it stealthily, can mean the difference between having turkey nuggets or having McNuggets.