I just got me some black walnut to make a few pot calls. When I cut it to size on my saw I noticed the wood is still wet. Any one had any luck using green wood, I have always used dry wood in my previous pots.
Green wood will check and warp when drying ruining your call. Dry it first. If the blanks are already cut then soak in Pentacryl. That will help keep it from checking.
Dry wood is a must for pots especially in my opinion. You run the risk of wood warping and putting excess pressure on the striking surface and breaking it in half.
Yea That's a bad idea most times wet wood will wrap well your turning it ,,,,ifreal need to usr it wrap in paper towels nuke it
Quote from: M,Yingling on January 14, 2015, 07:43:26 PM
Yea That's a bad idea most times wet wood will wrap well your turning it ,,,,ifreal need to usr it wrap in paper towels nuke it
Can you "stabilize" green wood in your pressure pot?
No cant stabilize wet wood ,,before stabilizing I toss wood in toaster oven for 12 to 24 hr to get as dry as possible,,, because after stabilizing if the wood was wet ,,,when u go to cure resin filled blank in oven the water in wood will boil the resin right out ,, they call it bleed out
Quote from: pplatz83 on January 14, 2015, 06:10:01 PM
Dry wood is a must for pots especially in my opinion. You run the risk of wood warping and putting excess pressure on the striking surface and breaking it in half.
Yep!
If you cut the Blanks to the same dimensions that you cut dry wood blanks to, it may be too late! When you slab our or cut blanks out of green wood, you need to cut them oversized to allow redimensioning once the wood is dry. When wood is drying, moisture comes.out the end grain faster than the face grain causes checking, twisting or warping. You can help prevent this by coating end of wood with your choice of coatings or even dip the end grain in wax. Even when you remove large amounts of wood (i.e. turning a pot call or honing out a Box Call, there is a.possibility that the wood will.move some. Usually very small.with dry cured wood, but it will move. I keep a moisture meter (pin probe style) in my shop and measure the moisture content of all the wood that I buy. I will usually let it sit for a week.or.two to get acclimated to my shop temperature and humidity before starting to.work with it!
green wood a no-no. I often find some nice crotch figured pieces in the firewood pile and set them out to air-dry after they have been cut into blanks. After a year of drying some still move after turning. My preference in kiln-dried