After having the scope mounted on your turkey gun, you have to sight it in. Many ways of doing this, but this is how I've done it through the years.
Things you will need:
1. Sandbags/shooting rest. This is a must, as you will need the gun to remain still while you adjust the windage and elevation of the scope
2. Patterning paper, bought usually at a local hardware store, called contractor's paper in 35" width.
3. Some sort of holder for your patten paper. I use large cardboard wedged between to four T post, two per side.
4. 2 3/4" low brass shells and your turkey shells you plan to shoot during season
5. Sharpie marker and/or masking tape.
6. Turkey target (not necessary if you can draw well)
7. Hearing protectors
First set up at 15 yards from your target.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6191.jpg)
Shoot at mark/tape on target.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6190.jpg)
Now, here is where you HAVE to keep the gun still without moving it, unless you want to have to shoot several times.
Place the gun in the sandbags/shooting rest, to where the retical of the scope is on the target you just shot (Point of Aim or POA), and is not needing any help from you to stay on target. If you look real closely, you can see the red dot on the masking tape in the below picture, where I was originally aiming.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6194.jpg)
Now, with out moving the gun, adjust the elevation of the scope to where the shot/hole is in the target (the point of impact or POI)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6192.jpg)
Without moving the gun, adjust the windage of the scope to where the target hole is.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6193.jpg)
Shoot again at a new target, and see where you POI is in location to your POA.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6195.jpg)
A little off, so I adjust it again using the above steps.
Steady in the bags, retical on the original target/POA.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6196.jpg)
Adjust the windage of the scope, as this was basically all that was off target.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6197.jpg)
Shoot again at different target.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6198.jpg)
Was basically on, a little high, but we are shooting at 15 yards, so I left it at that.
Moved the target to 40 yards now, and added new patterning paper.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6199.jpg)
Add a tape square, or color a good sized 2" dot you can see on the center of the pattering paper, and shot at it, still with low brass shells.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6200.jpg)
I was fairly happy with the shot pattern around where I was aiming, so I didn't adjust the scope, as I still have to shoot a turkey shell at 40 yards. So shoot a turkey shell at a turkey target at 40 yards, with new patterning paper.
This is a Nitro shell out of the SBE at 40 yards. (I poked a sharpie marker in each hole to count, and make it show up better for the camera.)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6204.jpg)
I need to change my POI up, as the pattern was low. I put a square of tape on the center of the turkey's neck where I was aiming, and a square of tape where the pattern center was on the paper.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6203.jpg)
I adjusted my scope, just like the first two adjustments, and shot again at a new turkey target, and patterning paper, at 40 yards.
Back of target, with a quarter where I was aiming (the middle of the turkey's neck).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6201.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/BOFF/web/100_6202.jpg)
It isn't going to get much better than the above, so I left it alone, and it is ready to hunt!!
Remember though, you have to shoot your gun again at 15, 25, and 30 yards if you are going to be positive of where your turkey shells will hit in comparison to your point of aim. At 15 yards, with a turkey choke, your pattern is going to be tight and not always where your POA was.
Hope this may help some of you. Stay safe!!
God Bless,
David B.
Thank you Dave! :icon_thumright:
Shannon, can this be made a sticky again?
Thank you Shannon! :icon_thumright:
Great advice. I never thought of doing it like this, but tried it the other day sighting in my 935 and it worked great. Thanks.
I followed this method for sighting in a Browning holo sight on a 870 SM and it worked perfect. Thanks for posting this.
I just used this method for sighting in open sites worked great.Thanks BOFF!
:thanks:
I have never used a scope but I am looking into mounting one on my sons 870 20ga. How do you know where the central point of your group is?
I'm thinking that depending on the pattern and central location of shot is where it will be?
Quote from: Balla1982 on March 13, 2013, 08:49:41 PM
I have never used a scope but I am looking into mounting one on my sons 870 20ga. How do you know where the central point of your group is?
I'm thinking that depending on the pattern and central location of shot is where it will be?
Wherever the most dense part of your pattern is located on the paper, that is your poi
very informative! thanks.
Thanks for the advice. I would like to mount an optic on my 870.
I made a great investment earlier this year for sighting in guns. Bought a Lead Sled.
Great advice! And this works great for sighting in rifles just the same as well.
Great post, about that time again.
Quote from: Balla1982 on March 13, 2013, 08:49:41 PM
How do you know where the central point of your group is?
That's why you start at only 15, or even 10 yards. The pattern at that range will be so dense it will actually punch a golf ball sized hole in the paper (see above pics.) That is the center of pattern.
If you were to start at say 30 yards, the pattern spread would make it difficult to find the true center.
Great tutorial BOFF, nicely done! :thanks:
Quote from: Fan Club on March 13, 2016, 09:17:11 PM
That's why you start at only 15, or even 10 yards. The pattern at that range will be so dense it will actually punch a golf ball sized hole in the paper (see above pics.) That is the center of pattern.
If you were to start at say 30 yards, the pattern spread would make it difficult to find the true center.
I always started at 10 yds. using target loads like BOFF does, make POA & POI adjustments, then I go to 25 yds., and then 40 yds., to see how POA & POI compare. Then its done with the turkey loads, I'll be using at the 25 & 40 yd. marks.
Like NWBama stated a Lead Sled would be a good investment, as it's funny how sighting in a gun, you feel the recoil so much more than when your shooting at a turkey or deer.
:icon_thumright: Thank you for the detailed instructions.
Just sighted in my Aimpoint red dot using this method. Worked excellent and saved lots of time and shells. Started at 15 yards with bird shot and using my lead sled and then moved out to 30 with turkey loads and centered my pattern with ease. Thanks for the info here.
Does this work with a turkey scope with cross hairs? Just bought a turkey plex. Thanks
This is the best method. Yes itll work just center pattern with the crosshairs. When aiming at a turkey just center his neck in the circle and hes dead.
Quote from: Fl strutter on December 08, 2018, 08:09:01 PM
This is the best method. Yes itll work just center pattern with the crosshairs. When aiming at a turkey just center his neck in the circle and hes dead.
Thanks
Printed this out to take along to the range when I get the scope put on.
how much weight should I use on the lead sled for a 20 gauge, all I have are two 5 lbs weights
Should be more than enough for a 20 gauge.
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Very good way to conserve your ammo , especially in today's crazy ammo shortage! This will allow some to still be able to have enough ammo to still hunt turkeys without depleting their valuable hunting shells! :smiley-patriotic-flagwaver-an
I normally use my laser bore sighter to get on paper.
Fire one shot from 30 yards.
Use a tape measure to get centered after your first shot.
Shoot one more to make sure your centered.
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Maybe I missing something, but I use very easy way, I put in Sightmark boresight laser, I using it to practice my gun mounts, for red dot I adjust until two dots are together, or for scope you adjust the cross, it works up to 35-40 yards especially in twilight, after you do couple control shots.
I use a 12 ga laser bore sighter also. Gets you real close then I use low brass to confirm then Turkey loads for final adjustments. Once I get it set, I recheck with the laser just so I can compare the two and use that comparison during the season to make sure nothing got knocked off.
Ches.