Anyone using stratabond for strikers out there and whats the difference between it and diamondwood? I can see where its hard to tell the difference in the looks of the woods!--Lyle
From my understanding from using each of them is, it doesnt have as much finish and resin incorparted in the it as the dymondwood. When you handle it, it is much lighter and less dense. The coloring process is the same. It is alot easier to turn.
If I am wrong someone can correct me.
So in other words same looks just diamondwood is more dense.
Dymondwood is made of birch ply here in the U.S. Not so sure about the other...
Quote from: Houndstooth Game Calls on June 30, 2011, 08:32:53 PM
So in other words same looks just diamondwood is more dense.
correct
I think all of Laminate Afield stuff is maple and Rutland is birch
When I talked to Curtis a year or so ago, he said that his stuff was made in Pakistan and was previously known as "pakkawood". What he referred to as dymalux was quite unkind to my gouges/lathe tools. I found myself re-sharpening multiple times to turn a single striker. With dymondwood, I can generally turn 6-8 strikers before sharpening. I use a skew gouge to round the spheres on my strikers, so it gets quite a workout on these strikers.
I have probably 15 blanks of the dymalux that I'm sending to another callmaker and paying the shipping. I haven't tried the softer material he offers. I think I'll just stick with the dymondwood. He has some great color patterns, I just can't make myself turn anymore of it.
Thanks guys I was just trying to figure the ends and outs of the dymond wood I am gonna play with some of both the strata bond and diamondwood let yall know how the strata bond does. By what I am hearing the diamond wood is hands down the best.
Quote from: lightsoutcalls on July 05, 2011, 04:56:00 PM
When I talked to Curtis a year or so ago, he said that his stuff was made in Pakistan and was previously known as "pakkawood". What he referred to as dymalux was quite unkind to my gouges/lathe tools. I found myself re-sharpening multiple times to turn a single striker. With dymondwood, I can generally turn 6-8 strikers before sharpening. I use a skew gouge to round the spheres on my strikers, so it gets quite a workout on these strikers.
I have probably 15 blanks of the dymalux that I'm sending to another callmaker and paying the shipping. I haven't tried the softer material he offers. I think I'll just stick with the dymondwood. He has some great color patterns, I just can't make myself turn anymore of it.
Wendell,
I am with you on the dymalux. I thought it was just me. That stuff is way harder than dymondwood. I didnt know about the "pakkawood" though.