Wood imperfections

[TRKYHTR]

I have noticed on a few different pieces of wood where there were some imperfections in the wood while turning it. This area is unable to be sanded smooth or finish very well. The finish in that area wont dry clear and shinny for me. Is there any way to fix that? I was thinking of some CA glue in that area. Any ideas? Thanks,

TRKYHTR

[a-j calls]

If i am turning a call and see or have problems, it goes into the wood stove, i don't glue anything!!!

[sugarray]

So, you would have chucked this call?  These imperfections are what has made this call.  It is awesome sounding.  I'm just glad he turned my first and not my FIL's.   

[MarkJM]

i've learned to not have anything to do with less than perfect wood for calls, if you have the slightest imperfection, it'll really stand out once its polished.

[Crutch]

I believe someone missed Wendell's point. If there is structrual integrity that would require a glue to keep it on the lathe or together, he kills it. It might also be true that he doesn't have a problem with end grain tearing, which can be fixed with glue to work thru the tooling marks.

[bnew17]

What about with box calls? Do yall trash them too?

I got a poplar box i was working on and it has a small knot in the middle upper part of one of the sound boards. Causes a different tone/pitch when the paddle reaches it.

[TRKYHTR]

Let me clarify a little better. When I say imperfections in the wood I mean areas in the wood that run thru the whole piece of wood and even seem to be a different color in grain. These areas I can't seem to sand down smoothly. They can end up anywhere on the pot call and it isn't made by my tools. I have tried several times to turn pots that have cracks and such and all I do is end up chucking the peice or it blows up on the lathe. This is different. It is maybe a change in grain or a graft that was in the wood. I don't know how to explain it. Just thought that you guys would know what I am talking about and have some ideas how to fix it before I try to finish it. Thanks,

TRKYHTR

[edjenkins]

I have started sealing everything in 2 coats of  Deft sanding sealer before I apply my finish.  Smooth it out with 0000 steel wool in between.  It evens out the majority of the differences in the surface for a clean even take on your finish.  Use in a highly ventilated area, it is some potent stuff.

[Gobblerstopper]

Like was said, sanding sealer will work some of it out.  Hand sanding it helps sometimes too.

Working with anything less than perfect wood kind of limits your choices in callmaking.  I'm not sure I even know what perfect wood is?

[Crutch]

I've had problems with areas on a pot that wanted to tear rather than cut cleanly like on the end grain. I know there is an answer as to why this is happening to me, but figured I would learn the hard way like most people do.  Sharpening the tools, angle  and pressure seem to be one reason it seem to not cut evenly.  A glue or sealer would help stop this but I suspect I am doing something wrong and don't want to have to go with a chemical just to complete a turning.  I am getting tired of the sanding though. Any advice would be appreciated.

[misfire]

I've had problems with areas on a pot that wanted to tear rather than cut cleanly like on the end grain. I know there is an answer as to why this is happening to me, but figured I would learn the hard way like most people do.  Sharpening the tools, angle  and pressure seem to be one reason it seem to not cut evenly.  A glue or sealer would help stop this but I suspect I am doing something wrong and don't want to have to go with a chemical just to complete a turning.  I am getting tired of the sanding though. Any advice would be appreciated.

I used to have a bear of a time with end grain tear out. Then a professional wood turner/teacher gave me some very good instruction in proper tool techniques. Up to that point I had never had anyone teach me anything. Boy howdy did this guy. I was totally wrong in the ways I was using my tools. I also grind a sharper angle on all of my tools now. Now, I can start sanding at 400gr and go up and not have to spend 3/4 of my time sanding. No more end grain tear out and wood that is pretty much smooth as glass before I do hit it with sandpaper.
The idea is to hold the bevel at an angle to the workpiece to where your tools slice wood off, not tear it. One day I will get a camera out in the shop and try to show you guys. I just dont know the words that would make my points

[Crutch]

I saw a referrance to that on the web and tried the angle bit, however it didn't work out so well for me. The tool grabbed and gouged a deep place. I know I need to correct the angle of the sharpening. Thanks for the info.

[MarkJM]

Working with anything less than perfect wood kind of limits your choices in callmaking.  I'm not sure I even know what perfect wood is?
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My definition of perfect wood is no rotted spots in it, no worm holes, and no knots that will fall out when you are turning the call. I dont mind a small knot that can be worked with.

[CallMaker]

Sharp tools, angle and turning speed make all the difference.  I had the problem turning Purpleheart pots. Tools were sharp, angle was correct, then I slowed down the turning speed and have never had the problem again.

[TarheelTurk]

May not beableto help with a solution. But i will say i think all the calls picture are awesome. I believe they both have character .