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Hevishot Reloads??

Started by BenW, March 27, 2013, 10:05:45 AM

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BenW

I'm wanting to try to reload some Hevi Shot.

Does anyone have some recipes they like to use? I've got a ton of once-fired 3" winchester hulls that I'd like to use if possible.

Thanks!

gophert

No one is going to probably just hand over a recipe to you due to liability reasons.  However, you can purchase the manual below and you will be on your way.  Just an FYI, turkey loads are usually loaded with new hulls.  Hope this helps.

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Handloading-Hevi-Shot-Manual-4th-ed/productinfo/00MHEVI/

davisd9

What size shot you thinking of using?
"A turkey hen speaks when she needs to speak, and says what she needs to say, when she needs to say it. So every word a turkey speaks is for a reason." - Rev Zach Farmer

BenW


Sand Man

yeah, Ballistic's Products would be my starting point.  I went there for 28 and .410 Hevi 7.5 loads, but they didn't have them.  All they had was loads for their ITX in the smaller bores.  They did have Hevi 20ga loads though.


Let the little twenty EAT!!!!

M R Ducks

Reloading heavy shot can be flat out dangerous, and the recipes you will find published in reloading manuals TEND to be conservative to mitigate risk.  The reason it can be dangerous is because the shot is extra heavy, and specific powders (such as STEEL) must be used to produce a slower, yet high pressure burn rate.  The components available over the counter will produce safe, effective loads, but FOLLOW THE MANUAL EXACTLY.  Do not subsitute hulls or primers or wads - use what is specified.  Yes, it makes a difference, especially the primer.  You will need some extra "stuff," like a very accurate powder scale, and powder mill to add the get to the exact amount of powder neded.  Also, us a primer tray to count out the number of pellets needed to get to the exact load weight, then repeat each time.  Be very deliberte with the pressure used in setting the wad.

It will take you the better part of a morning to properly load 25 shells, but that's OK as you won;t be shooting many.

Reloading is fun, and I load a lot - but I have yet to come up with a non-lead load that matches much less out performs a factory shell. 10 gaugers load a lot of specialty steel loads for geese and ducks, and these are pretty easy because the gun just patterns large steel well.  Turkey loads are a different story....  but there is nothing quite like shooting your own hand loads to round out a hunting expereince.

Just my 2 cents.

Ducks       

turkey_slayer

Quote from: M R Ducks on March 27, 2013, 12:37:58 PM
Reloading heavy shot can be flat out dangerous, and the recipes you will find published in reloading manuals TEND to be conservative to mitigate risk.  The reason it can be dangerous is because the shot is extra heavy, and specific powders (such as STEEL) must be used to produce a slower, yet high pressure burn rate.  The components available over the counter will produce safe, effective loads, but FOLLOW THE MANUAL EXACTLY.  Do not subsitute hulls or primers or wads - use what is specified.  Yes, it makes a difference, especially the primer.  You will need some extra "stuff," like a very accurate powder scale, and powder mill to add the get to the exact amount of powder neded.  Also, us a primer tray to count out the number of pellets needed to get to the exact load weight, then repeat each time.  Be very deliberte with the pressure used in setting the wad.

It will take you the better part of a morning to properly load 25 shells, but that's OK as you won;t be shooting many.

Reloading is fun, and I load a lot - but I have yet to come up with a non-lead load that matches much less out performs a factory shell. 10 gaugers load a lot of specialty steel loads for geese and ducks, and these are pretty easy because the gun just patterns large steel well.  Turkey loads are a different story....  but there is nothing quite like shooting your own hand loads to round out a hunting expereince.

Just my 2 cents.

Ducks       

I agree except that part. An ounce is an ounce. Hevi is only slightly denser than lead but much much harder. It doesnt give like lead which builds pressures. TSS is a lot safer to load cause its so heavy it doesnt take the volume to get an ounce such as lead or hevi and you can use felt to fill the load to get it to height which creates cushion and lowers pressure (velocity as well). Everything else I agree with  :icon_thumright:

M R Ducks

Yeah - I wasn't very clear...  So let me clarify..

You need to use the primer tray to count out how many pellets equal the specified load because if you use a charge bar you will overload the shell, because like you said, hevi is heavier. Also, the shot doesn't deform like lead, so it kind of acts as an obstruction when compared to lead, so it needs to be accelerated down the barrel more slowly, this is where STEEL powder comes into play. It burns slower, but still procduces the needed pressure, just not all at once like say clays or clay dot. Relaoding steel shot requires the same attention to detail and special components, for the same reasons.

Ducks

turkey_slayer

For my turkey loads I weigh my shot charges. Only time I use charge bars is for high volume loading. Been using a rcbs 1500 charge master with dispenser for a couple of years now and love it!