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Help in removing playing surface

Started by worth612000, March 05, 2012, 09:05:13 AM

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worth612000

Help in removing playing surface. I have a pot call and want to replace playing surface without damaging call. Rather ask for help vs jumping in. Thanks

4nolz2

I use a hot air gun like for wallpaper use-heat the surface avoiding the wood (will scorch) until the liquid nails or goop loosens then pop it of by pressing the sound board off first then the surface with a striker tip from the bottom sound hole.

Hunt4Meat

I attach my surfaces with silicon. So, don't laugh or kill me... but I use a hammer to remove mine if need be. I just pull the pieces out and then scrape all the silicone off and replace with another one.
If at first you don't succeed, shoot again.

Gobblerstopper

If the surface is glass/crystal I usually take a hammer, break it out the best I can and then cut it out or press a chisel onto the top edge (avoiding the pot) and break it up small enough that I can cut or scrap the rest off.

If it is aluminum I put it in the oven as low as the oven will go for about 10 minutes and press it out with a dowel from the back through the holes.  You will usually have to take the soundboard out also and let it press against the surface and push both of them out.  I work my way around using all of the soundholes.

I have also drilled a couple of holes in the aluminum around the edge and heated the pot.  Then I took a piece of metal clothes hanger bent on the end and stuck it under the aluminum and pulled it out from the top saving the soundboard.

However you get it out, I have found that it is very important to remove all of the old adhesive for both the pot and the soundboard.  If done well the call should sound the same as it did the first time you made it.

worth612000

Thanks so much guys. I will try the hot air method. This is a well made call and I 'am guessing goop is what was used.

Basser69

If you use the oven method as Andy told you about...WARNING pot is hot when you pull it out! Trust me on this one use a hot pad



swampgobbler

So it's not your pot?  I wouldn't risk it since you said it was well made.

lightsoutcalls

I use a embossing gun found in the scrapbooking supplies at Michael's or Hobby Lobby.  They are like a hair dryer with higher heat and lower airflow (not as intense as the one mentioned in the first reply).  I have never had the wood scorched, but I have warmed my fingers beyond a comfortable level.  ;D

    After I remove the damaged surface, I use a round sanding block that I make on the lathe.  Turn a scrap blank of wood so that it is the same outer diameter as the inner diameter of your call surface "shelf".  By that, I mean that once you turn the sanding block, it should fit nicely inside the rim of your call, just like your surface material.  I use a pot call blank out of a less expensive wood.  Once you get the diameter right, adhere a piece of 120 grit sandpaper to the surface of your sanding block with spray adhesive (I use 3M and am still on my first can).  I rough cut a piece larger than my sanding block and trim it to size on the sanding block once the adhesive is dry.  The heat from the heat gun will soften the glue, and some of it may pull out with the surface.  The remaining glue can now be sanded off of the "shelf" with the sanding block.  I use a thin, cheap carving gouge to scrape any remaining glue off of the area where the side of  the call surface would go. 
   I also make a smaller sandblock that can be used to sand the surface of the pedestal if this has to be removed.  I also use these prior to gluing soundboards and surfaces in on new calls. 
Lights Out custom calls - what they're dying to hear!


M,Yingling

Just curious if your replacing the surface or plan on putting a different type surface in it ,,I know my pots are slightly different for each playing surface to get the sound i want ,,Just something to think about ,,
Not taking orders for calls at this time ,,,but my have some on hand  ,,,I Dont sell strikers
I do like copper pot calls,,,,Get them While u can
My YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/user/CallerTurkey

worth612000

Hi,

I do appreciate all the support. No I didn't make the call and was planning on changing slate to aluminum. Its not like I 'am short on any calls. After all of your knowledgeable inputs I have decided to abandon this project.  Someone told me it was the spring fever, but mine has been going on for a few years.  :laugh:

Thanks again all

mmclain

heat some large washers and place in a tuna can......this heats up the calling surface w/o heating the wood

place the calling surface face down to the heat.......

let the surface get hot

take a dropper and add laquer thinner through the sound holes in the back.....enough thinner that it will start to boil..........

lay out some news paper

the surface will fall out.........or fall out with only slight pressure.....

do this in a well ventillated area........

Stoner

If you used Goop to glue the top surface on you can use the microwave. Warm it and do not cook it. If you warm it slowly it will loosen up and come off. If you cook the call it will burn the wood. Lastly wait until your wife goes to the store before you do it.

worth612000

LOL I could tote the microwave to the garage. She has already banned me on searing duck breast in the house.

gunslinger

Easiest way is to use a nailset and hammer to break the surface then pry out the pieces.   Whole lot faster than trying to heat one too!

handcannon

Well I'm glad this topic came up. I'm about to have to remove my first surface. I made a good looking laminated pot but did not notice I had a little ridge on the ledge when I glued it up. It does not sit perfectly flush on the ledge and the sound is off. I like Wendell's idea on the sanding disc too. Gonna have to try that one.